Lemony thicket
Sydney Morning Herald
Saturday August 14, 2010
This zingy grass flavours everything from tea to Thai, writes CHERYL MADDOCKS. Every master chef knows the importance of tangy flavours in cooking. Without lemons, for example, the range of sharp, arresting tastes would be seriously diminished. And when it comes to Asian cuisine, the kitchen star isn't the lemon but zesty lemon grass.Thailand's favourite tomyum soup wouldn't be the same without the tantalising taste of this fragrant grass, which is also used in salads and stir-fries throughout south-east Asia.Closer to home, the white, thick, fleshy stem base of lemon grass can be used as a stuffing for chicken and is delicious when steamed with fish.The oil extracted from the leaves of some lemon grass species is used in aromatherapy, perfumes and as a food flavouring. The oil contains vitamin A, so it is good for the skin. The green leaves are popular in herbal teas. In herbal medicine they are valued for their sedative properties and to aid digestion.To make tea, place a dessert spoon of freshly chopped leaves in a glass or china teapot filled with 1 cup of boiling water and steep for about five minutes. Add a few slices of fresh ginger for an even better buzz. Iced lemon grass tea in summer is very refreshing.Lemon grass is easy to grow. There are more than 55 species throughout the world and eight are native to Australia. Aborigines traditionally used some native species for cooking and healing.Recent research at Griffith University found that one of our native lemon grasses, Cymbopogon ambiguus, has the potential to relieve headaches and migraines. While this lemon grass is fabulous in garden beds and is drought-resistant, it is not the one popularly used in cooking.It is the lemon grass Cymbopogon citratus (pictured), a native of India and Sri Lanka, that imparts its fabulous flavour to cuisine. This handsome, clump-forming perennial has arching, metre-high, leaves that look good in the garden.You can show it off among ornamentals in a flower bed, grow it among shrubs or even in large pots.To grow lemon grass, choose a sunny site. It doesn't like frost but will survive in a large pot on a sheltered, sunny verandah.It likes moist but well-drained soil, so dig in some rotted cow manure or compost. If your soil drains too quickly, add a soil-wetting agent, such as Wettasoil or Seasol Soil Wetter. Regular summer watering will ensure you get enough stems for the kitchen.Nurseries sell young plants or you can take a division in early spring from a friend who grows it.Some gardeners I know grow lemon grass from store-bought stems. Choose a healthy stem that hasn't dried out and which still has some root base. Cut off the green leaves at the top and place the stem in a glass of water, then put the glass in a warm, well-lit spot and new roots will grow in about 10 days.Once the roots have grown to about 25 millimetres, the stem can be potted or planted in the garden.IT'S TIME TO ... Visit the Royal Botanic Gardens to join the free "Teaming With Life" guided walks on Wednesday, August 18, or Sunday, August 22. Part of National Science Week, the walks reveal relationships between plants and wildlife. Book on 9231 8134 or visit rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au. Prune roses in cool climates if you haven't already. Fertilise and mulch. Spend sunny days revamping outdoor furniture. It's amazing what a coat of paint can do. Fertilise jonquils and daffodils. Don't cut back their leaves; let them die down naturally.
© 2010 Sydney Morning Herald
